Trolls and more...

I've made several trips to Oslo, Norway on this summer run through the Baltic region, but now I've seen what I could in the amount of time I had. We pull into the long narrow channel early in the morning and dock in Oslo. Norway is the land of the midnight sun as are most of the countries we visit up here in the north. To the ancients Norway was a mythical land of barbaric and fabulous creatures. Trolls (who come in all shapes and sizes and are both good and evil) are the folklore of the country. In their hearts, many Norwegians still believe in them. The legend goes that if a troll comes out during the day it bursts into a mountain, which is why Norway is so mountainous. It was named after the Norwegian word "Norge" which was derived from "Norvegr" meaning "the way to the north." Oslo is one of the oldest Scandinavian capitals. It's one of the greenest cities in Scandinavia and the landscapes are beautiful. We dock near the Akershus castle where master builder and King of Denmark and Norway Christian IV resided. Oslo is one of Scandinavia's most expensive cities and is thriving with old and new. The National Theatre, Parliament Building, and Castle are some of the older structures left from the Swedish, Danish, and Norwegian alliance. Now the port is packed with trendy stores and expensive restaurants. The tax here on goods will run you about 25% in addition to the purchase price. It's pretty stiff and can make a meal that would normally cost $5 in the US jump up to near $10 in a heartbeat. Needless to say, McDonald's is NOT cheap here. While I was here I got to experience the beauty of the Akershus Castle. We dock right next to this structure every time. It's one of the oldest buildings in Oslo built in 1300. It was rebuilt in 1527 after a devastating fire. It's so interesting to go through this castle and get a feel for old Scandinavia. There are guards still patrolling the area and it sits on a hilltop that gives fabulous views of the city.

Just recently we went to Vigeland Park. It takes a short tram ride to get there and it's a huge park with tons of meadows and trees. Right in the center of it all are these statues that everyone comes to see. It's the lifetime work of Gustav Vigeland. He worked on the park for 40 years. The heart of the park is the Vigeland Monolith sculpted from 121 figures. Around the figure are 36 other sculptures on stairs that lead up to the centerpiece. The column is said to symbolize the struggle of life, which is one of Vigeland's main themes in all his work. The top of the piece are figures of young people and as you go to its base, the people grow older. All the people are entangled amongst each other and it's fascinating to see. I finally saw one of the most famous pieces of art here titled "The Angry Boy." It's a statue of a baby throwing a tantrum. The mystery is that no one knows why he's so furious. We had a fun day here just looking at the gardens and the art and imitating some of the statues. It was a blast. If we only had more time, it'd be the perfect place to pack a box lunch and just lay around enjoying the sun and the scenery. The atmosphere is so relaxed here it's unbelievable. There are beautiful parks, trendy hangouts, and fascinating people. The Norwegians believe in culture and display it everywhere from music, theatre, and works of art. There are statues all over the city (not just in Vigeland Park) and festivals happen all summer long. This is the home of the famous playwright Ibsen and of the famous art piece "The Scream." I'd definitely like to come here one summer and experience Oslo as it should be. It may be a while though since this place is more expensive than most places in NYC.

Two for One...

Two countries, both influenced by the Russians, which have come out of ruin and have rebuilt or are rebuilding their bright new futures. I can't believe how much the Russians have influenced these countries and how far their reign stretched. Even Tallinn in Estonia and the Ukraine back in the Black Sea have their roots deep into Russian heritage, but have become independent of this huge empire. Finland and Germany have risen out of the rubble of devastation and created beautiful cities rich in history.

Helsinki, Finland (originally founded by the Swedes in 1550 by Gustav Vasa). I've seen it now at least 4 times on this Baltic cruise. It's normally a day of leisure and occasionally exploration. Over these 4 visits, I've seen quite a bit and just thought I'd summarize. It's the land of Santa Claus. Lapland in northern Helsinki seems to be a popular tour running for about $700 since it involves a flight to the Arctic Circle. Lapland is about 1/3 of Finland itself and is the land of the midnight sun. Someday I'd like to visit this place JUST to see it. Santa Claus is the icon here because of the reindeer. Yes folks, reindeer. The Lapps raise them up here and these Lapps are most famous for their traditional garb. One day, I do plan to make that North Pole visit and relive my childhood fantasy of meeting the REAL Santa Claus (or at least a Lapp dressed in traditional garb with a few reindeer). We dock in Helsinki, which is Finland's capital since 1812. The southern coast of Finland is the most populated, industrialized and the richest part of the country. Its Russian neighbor derived its very shape and form. Following a devastating fire in 1808 and its appointment as the capital in 1812, Helsinki was rebuilt with wide streets and neoclassical brick buildings modeled after the Russian capital of St. Petersburg. Senate Square is dominated by the recently renovated Tuomiokirkko, which is now mostly used for exhibitions. It stands on a platform above the square and has within its architecture the glories of ancient Greek and Roman influences. It's quite the sight to see among the hip shops that comprise the entire area. Malls, pubs, restaurants, and trendy hangouts dominate the new city. Down the street and east is the Russian Orthodox Upensky Cathedral. You can see this structure from the Esplanadi sitting high up on it's perch just past the open market by the water. The Esplanadi is the hangout area. There are festivals in the park that runs down the middle of two streets. On either side are various street cafes, restaurants, pubs, and trendy stores. At the end of the boulevard is an open-air market selling anything from fresh vegetables and meats to trinkets and souvenirs. One day I took a walk around the great park that sits behind the train station here and the people are just so care free. It was the middle of the week and the middle of the day and people were on the lawns sunbathing and reading books. How do they do it? I also ventured off with a group to Temppeliaaukio Church (or the Church in a Rock). It was built into solid rock and consecrated in 1969. It's superb acoustics allow it to be used for many great concerts. About 90% of these buildings were built after 1920 due to the fire and the harsh struggles between Sweden and Russia. Yet another beautiful place to take a casual stroll and let the woes of the world roll off, as most of these people seem to be doing in the parks.

A group of us arose at 5:00 AM on August 17 and began our journey from Wernemunde, Germany to Berlin on our own with no tour. I was going on some knowledge of my previous trip and I wanted to get a closer look rather than a view from the bus. We took the 3 1/2 hour train ride to the city and arrived around 10:00 AM after leaving the small port town around 6:30 AM We started our journey out of the station and crossed over into the Tiergarten where we found our first sight: "Innovative Football Boots," an idea by the Dassler family, 1953, Herzogenaurach. Adi Dassler's new boots provided the German soccer team (football in Europe) with a particularly firm grip on soft, rain-soaked ground. His idea of flexible screw-in studs (deats) revolutionized the game. Soon after the Germans' surprise victory, dubbed the "Miracle of Bern," half the soccer world was using the new-fangled boots. To this day athletes all over the world claim their victories to German sportswear. Nearly half the world's soccer boots are developed in Berlin and 18 of 30 teams competing in the World Cup 2006 use equipment by German manufacturers. Germany has more sports clubs than any other country in the world. This "Innovative Football Boots" sculpture is one of 6 sculptures that comprise the Walk of Ideas celebrating ideas "made in Germany." Further info about these sculptures can be found at www.walk-of-ideas.org. We found 2 other sites where these sculptures were displayed. One was in the Grand Market and Concert Hall where music notes were displayed probably to indicate Germany's role in new ideas in music. Another sculpture we came upon was a stack of books, which must represent all the great German writers. This was displayed in the square of the empty library where the infamous book burning took place. Many of these author's works were burned on this square. Also displayed here the last time I came to Berlin was a circle of German bears that were decorated by each country participating in the World Cup. They were gone today since the entire World Cup craze was over. I was sad to miss them since we only drove by last time.

We continued on our journey to the Brandenburg Gate. This popular gate was an icon of the Berlin wall. On one side is East Berlin and on the other is the Tiergarten in West Berlin. Anyone wishing to pass through east and west had to stop at the gate first as a checkpoint. We took a journey into town to see a piece of the Berlin Wall at the Topography of Terror. The Berlin Wall was a worldwide symbol for the division of Germany after WWII and for the injustice and inhumanity of the communist system. Construction began on August 13, 1961 on the orders of the GDR (German Democratic Republic) leadership. It was hardly Democratic under this dictatorship. It formed a 93-mile barrier sealing off East Berlin and East Germany from West Berlin. It was built in 2 sections. An anchor wall and "hinterland wall," a border strip with service road, watchtowers and barrier fortifications. Over 150 people were shot down by GDR while attempting to cross. The impending collapse of the Soviet empire and the rapid growth of the GDR protest movement led to the opening of the wall on November 9, 1989. Soon after the first sections of the barrier were torn down. The districts of Mitte (East) and Kreuzberg (West) have been preserved retaining all traces of destruction that occurred during the transitional period and placed under protection as a historical monument. The piece of the wall I saw was kept as a document both of the inhumanity of the border and how it was overcome. The wall will form the north portion of the Topography of Terror, a museum to be built with the history behind the wall. This original open exhibit opened in 1987 n the occasion of the 750th anniversary of the city of Berlin. Onward to Friederichstrausse, which was one of the 7 inner-city border crossings set up. Today it has a special place of remembrance for people all over the world. Like the Berlin Wall, this former crossing symbolizes East Germany's brutal border regime. Under the name given to it by the Allied Forces, "Checkpoint Charlie" is also a symbol of the defense of western democracy. It was in the center of the Iron Curtain, and the border crossing was the scene of the direct confrontation in Europe between the superpowers, the USA and the Soviet Union. We made our way back to the train station after eating lunch at "Snackpoint Charlie" (how commercial things become) up Friederichstrausse to the Grand Market and Concert Hall. Here we found another one of those sculptures celebrating German ideas. I'm always baffled at the architecture in these ports and this square was no exception. The history here is so rich. We continued on to University Square at Humboldt University where the empty library resides. Here was the place where books were burned. A quote that lies on the ground near the sight of the mounds of books that were burned read something to the order of "he who burns books will burn people." I believe we overheard the tour guide say that a famous writer made this comment before WWII and later had to throw his OWN book in the burning pile. How awful. After a long day of sightseeing and walking, we headed back on the train for another 3 1/2 hour trip. Another sight seen and pure exhaustion culminated.

Upon my return I received an e-mail from my company giving me an offer for yet another worldly adventure. I will begin rehearsing in November for Holland America's Prinsendam. It's the smallest ship in the fleet, but it sees the world. Literally. The Grand World Voyage this year is being done on the Amsterdam and I was told I'd possibly be swapping ships mid-contract to vary the shows a little. Our cast will switch ships with the Amsterdam and then go back to the Prinsendam in Europe. If this plan becomes solid (the itinerary portion and swapping), I'll see 3/4 of the entire continent of South America and a tip of Antarctica, Australia, China, Indonesia, Malaysia, India, and Europe all over again with side trips to NYC and Florida. In one contract, I'll see all SEVEN continents of the world and I think that's amazing! Even if the swapping doesn't take place, I'll still see ALL of South America, the tip of Antarctica, and re-visit Europe. I'm excited for this last voyage, but then again who knows. I may not be done yet again who knows. I may not be done yet.

Mixologist I Am Not..

Ahh, the day after. St. Petersburg evening was indeed a blast. I also had a good experience in the day doing a little shopping, a little sight seeing, and getting a lot of walking exercise in. I also got some fabulous exercise in at the club Metro last evening as I shook my tail feathers for about 5 hours on the dance floor. My shirt and pants were soaked I was dancing so hard and the club was jamming all night long with trendy young Russians and various others. Going out to Metro is always a unique experience. Tonight was no exception. You take a nap beforehand because you don't leave until 11:00 PM or so and then you all get in a cab that costs about $5.00 to get to the club from the ship. The club ONLY takes Rubles so you have to change your money during the day (otherwise you'll get screwed on commissions and rates from the city cab drivers waiting to take advantage of your U.S. money in the parking lot). The entrance fee is 300 Rubles (roughly $10.00) if you get there BEFORE midnight, but after 11:30 PM. It varies with times starting at 11:00 PM. After midnight is the highest. You get your 5 free soda tickets and you have 3 floors of hopping music to choose from. We usually start off at the bar with the cheap vodka at 55 Rubles (roughly a $1.75 shot and for those in NYC that's cheap!) and a coke. Then we're off to the dance floor. It was packed in there the other night. Now before we all get to the club, we usually have a cheap outing in the local crew bar on board. I had my 2 fabulous cans of cider beer that I got in Tallinn. The pear cider is fabulous and is the only beer form I'll drink. It's cheap too at a $1.00 US/can for at least 2 cans worth (1 liter). At the local crew bar I was also given a shot of Yeager mixed with Red Bull and had a shot of Tequilla. I was happy, but not overly happy and figured I'd dance most of it out on the dance floor. I used 3 of my tickets for cocktails at the club and stopped. The rest of the night was dance dance dance until 5:00 AM. Woo hoo!! Now in Russia, you have to take your Seaman's Book with you as a crew member. It's bigger than a passport and just doesn't fit into any normal pockets and you NEED it to get in and out of the gate at port. You also NEED it in Russia if an official stops you. SO I hand it off to one of my fellow female cast members with a purse figuring that we all left together last time and it's sure to happen again. Woops. That's where the interesting part comes in. I was burning up the dance floor soaked in sweat at the end of the evening when a group decided to leave and I was ready to go. I found out this girl left 2 hours before I did WITH my book. Whoa!! I panicked of course and friends were calming me down saying everything would be okay. Sure enough, my poor friend forgot she had it in her purse and realized it at the gate (which is about 30 minute walk from the ship itself so you need a cab inside the gate to get through all the shipyard crap). Her and her boyfriend waited outside for the 2 hour difference. I was relieved, but never felt so worried before. It was still a good night until this morning when I realized all my mixing was not a good idea. I was sober when I went to bed, but certain mixtures had me in bed all day. Lessons learned, always beware of your important identification paperwork and never mix tequila with ANYTHING. All is well now and we all have things to laugh about today. I finally caught up on all my rest though since I was knocked out until 5:00 PM today and when that happens on a ship, you're suddenly on a diet because you only have 1 meal left, lol. Thank God for snacks.

Day in Denmark...

Copenhagen is Scandinavia's largest and liveliest city and is one of Europe's most seductive destinations. It has the cultural and social attractions of a major European capital, but it's about as compact as they come. There's a treasure trove of castles, churches, and museums to explore as well as lavish parks and gardens. Once again this is Denmark where the free city bikes are, but there were none to be found the other day. Even at stands where the locks lay empty for about 20 of them!! The city was buzzing with life!! This major city, once a fishing village, developed within the shelter of Slotsholm, the island dominated by the Christianborg Palace. It was built as a base to fend off the Germans. Copenhagen is a derivative of Danish words meaning "port of the merchants." It expanded in the 15th century and flourished during the reign of Christian IV. We took the train into town as we did last time. It's pretty easy. You walk out of port and within 15 minutes, you're on a central line right to the heart of the city where you can also catch the subways and busses. The ticket is good for an hour and you can ride as much as you want. It's all on the honor system. We paid for our tickets, but no one checked us. We arrived in the heart of the city and right outside is Tivoli amusement park. It's supposed to have a fabulous nightlife and gardens, but there's not much there in the way of rides. The shopping here is amazing. TONS of places to go along the strip and as you're walking you get the random church or Danish garden or even sculpture as you pass by. In my 2 visits to Copenhagen, we saw the Kongens Have (a park) where the Rosenborg Slot Castle is, the Botanical Gardens, 4 different churches including the Marmorkurken Church that makes it on all the postcards in the background of the Amalienborg Palace (which I also saw), and the infamous Christianborg Palace. There's so much to see and do here. A large canal runs around the whole city (like the Cuyahoga River runs through Cleveland) and there's a smaller canal that runs around the Christianborg Palace. Denmark is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen so there's a statue of the Little Mermaid here in a park near port that I still haven't got a glimpse of yet. The day is a little rushed since the city is technically 20 minutes from the ship and it's a home port which means we have to be back by 4pm for passenger safety drill. I also hear the town of Christiania is supposed to be a beautiful sight so I'll get there next time. It's a free town, a self-declared "independent state" in the heart of Denmark. Supposedly the hippies of the 60s and 70s resided here on a "no rent and no local tax" policy of a city for the people by the people. They broke into abandoned barracks and refused to leave despite violent confrontations with the state. The government eventually agreed to make Christiania a "social experiment" and it's emerged 1,00 strong with it's own radio, education system, theatre, and social scene. It's considered an inexpensive place for entertainment and cafes. Hopefully I can get one of those city bikes and ride over there. The feel here is hip just like it is in Aarhus. The architecture is amazing and it's such a huge city with lots of beauty in it. Street entertainers throughout the city, soapbox speakers, and tons of shopping and cafes. It's really a place to come and spend more than just a few hours. One more visit here.

Double Standard..

Why is it that women can dance with women, but men can't dance with men? I was wondering this the other day in St. Petersburg, Russia of all places. The subject of double standards has been the hot topic of conversation since a not very recent movie was playing on the crew channel these past cruises. It's "Lost and Delirious" with Jessica Pare and Piper Perabo. It portrays the struggle of teenage angst while the girls attend an all girls prep school. The girls fall in love with each other, but then Jessica Pare's character (Tory) decides it's not really what she wants and the other girl played by Piper (Paulie) becomes obsessed with her. There's full nudity and sex scenes between the two love-struck girls. Yet when "Brokeback Mountain" came out last year it was the news of the country. It had press a full year before it came out! It was and still is considered "controversial" and a radical step toward gay love stories in film. There wasn't really any nudity at all and the sex scenes were mild in comparison to the ones in "Lost and Delirious" and still "Brokeback Mountain" got an R rating for adult situations. Why is it okay for lesbian love, but not okay for two men in love? Is it too traumatic? Why are men so threatened by the idea of falling in love with each other? Not a whisper was heard when the other movie came out in 2000. In fact I just read somewhere that Roger Ebert praised the movie. I don't really remember the movie at all come to think of it. It was just like every other forgettable movie that came out that year. Of course I was on a cruise line as well in that year and dealing with my own struggles. Maybe if men explored more of their feminine sides instead of being threatened by them, the other struggles in the world won't be so hard core. Back to the dancing. I was having a lovely time dancing with our girls and the girls were dancing with each other. Even growing up I remember women being able to dance with each other, but it was considered a joke if men danced with each other. One of our guys while at the club in St. Petersburg thought it might not be a good idea to dance with each other even though it was in the "gay" part of the club with male dancers strutting around on the upper level. Last time I was there, no one seemed to mind and guys dancing with each other were applauded. Most of Europe seems to be carefree like that. However it sparked a thought about our good ole Quaker founded US of A. Southern Baptists, Mormons of the Northwest, the heart and soul of our midwest states forever stuck in the 50s ideal, and for those not fitting in those groups but still following our beloved gay-hating president Bush the Horrible. It's how we as Americans are raised and for even those of us in the most acceptable families, the media still crams most of this garbage down our throats about how men should be men. Even women in office and women of the US have adopted this role model. So instead of accepting a feminine thought, look, or ideal, they'd rather hype up their masculine sides and become the rigid and closed minded individuals these people are. I know there are other parts of the world where such practices aren't accepted. Europe has just been so relaxed, so happy, and so cultured. They have art, music, theatre, books, and all sorts of mind stimulating things that are being taken out of our school programs in the US. Things that open up our minds are being stripped from our schools to make our education programs weak in comparison. The US population is threatened by new ideas. Why men can't dance with men is only the tip of the iceberg that's sinking our country into the ignorance, hatred, and rigid ideals that the enemies we're fighting against have in their country. I simply think if we just lived our lives a little less rigid, accepted both the masculine AND feminine sides of or personas, minded our own business instead of being threatened by the way other people live their lives, and agree to disagree more instead of forcing our ideals on one another then our minds will be open and we'll be happier as a group of people. Until then we'll be insecure, hateful, spiteful, and stubborn. A straight path leading to ignorance and fear.